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96 Robert Parker
The 2008 La Tache amply illustrates why this monopole is the darling among most of those lucky enough to regularly taste or collect the wines of the Domaine de La Romanee-Conti. Hints of mocha, vanilla, maraschino, and almond paste lend a confectionary note to generously rich cassis and raspberry, while Latakia tobacco, peat, clove, black pepper, star anise, and cumin contribute commune-typical Vosne-Romanee personality in spades. The high-toned, sweet themes continue inner mouth, with intimation of heliotrope, rowan, and lily perfume, while the wine’s smoky, spicy elements seem to descend into a low-register undertone of roasted red meats and forest floor. As this opens to the air, a subtly sweet-saline suggestion of lobster shell reduction adds richness and succulence. Strikingly creamy in feel, this La Tache nevertheless possessed a fresh berry edge that helps convey vibrancy to a finish that practically glows in your mouth, offering another of those Burgundian paradoxes of light and dark. Here, de Villaine’s case for long-term potential is easily made, and I expect this will richly reward at least 15-20 years of attention.
96 Robert Parker
The 2008 La Tache amply illustrates why this monopole is the darling among most of those lucky enough to regularly taste or collect the wines of the Domaine de La Romanee-Conti. Hints of mocha, vanilla, maraschino, and almond paste lend a confectionary note to generously rich cassis and raspberry, while Latakia tobacco, peat, clove, black pepper, star anise, and cumin contribute commune-typical Vosne-Romanee personality in spades. The high-toned, sweet themes continue inner mouth, with intimation of heliotrope, rowan, and lily perfume, while the wine’s smoky, spicy elements seem to descend into a low-register undertone of roasted red meats and forest floor. As this opens to the air, a subtly sweet-saline suggestion of lobster shell reduction adds richness and succulence. Strikingly creamy in feel, this La Tache nevertheless possessed a fresh berry edge that helps convey vibrancy to a finish that practically glows in your mouth, offering another of those Burgundian paradoxes of light and dark. Here, de Villaine’s case for long-term potential is easily made, and I expect this will richly reward at least 15-20 years of attention.
95 Wine Spectator
Different than the rest of the range from barrel and different in bottle, with a nose that's unevolved, dense and spicy. Displays deep, rich blackberry, black currant and licorice flavors on the palate, building and expanding to the long mineral finish.—Non-blind 2007 DRC tasting (February 2010). Best from 2014 through 2032. –BS
95 Wine Spectator
Different than the rest of the range from barrel and different in bottle, with a nose that's unevolved, dense and spicy. Displays deep, rich blackberry, black currant and licorice flavors on the palate, building and expanding to the long mineral finish.—Non-blind 2007 DRC tasting (February 2010). Best from 2014 through 2032. –BS
Produttore
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
La tenuta vinicola più iconica non solo della Borgogna, ma di tutta la Francia, se non del mondo intero. Con il monopolio dei due vigneti più grandi - Romanée-Conti e La Tâche - e con una generosa quantità di altri vigneti a Vosne-Romanée e oltre, la tenuta si è assicurata da lungo tempo uno status venerato, pur essendo totalmente discreta e perfino modesta. La Casa è di proprietà delle famiglie Villaine e Leroy-Roch, con Aubert de Villaine alla guida della tenuta fin dal 1974, ma può far risalire le proprie radici al XIII secolo, quando i monaci di Saint-Vivant piantumarono le prime viti. La tenuta è biologica dagli anni Ottanta e biodinamica dagli anni Novanta. Indubbiamente, è anche la tenuta più famosa nella regione ad adottare (e ad averlo sempre fatto) la fermentazione a grappoli interi, una tecnica tradizionale sempre evitata da Henri Jayer, ma che in anni recenti ha ispirato molti altri viticoltori. Allen Meadows, probabilmente l’esperto di Borgogna e il critico più competente del mondo, ha dato un punteggio perfetto a un solo vino: il Romanée-Conti del 1945.