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96 Robert Parker
The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that truly deserves the phrase “liquid mineral.” Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass. The palate has perfect acidity and subtle spicy notes on the entry: hints of lime flower, citrus lemon and a subtle note of mandarin coming through with aeration. Is exhibits balletic poise on the finish – a sensational Corton-Charlemagne that just may turn out to be just as good as the 2010. Drink 2018-2035. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune
Producteur
Domaine Coche-Dury
Coche-Dury est l'un des producteurs les plus emblématiques et les plus énigmatiques de la Bourgogne. Le sésame pour ouvrir les portes de sa cave demeure secret et en l’absence de courriel, la seule façon d'obtenir un rendez-vous reste le télécopieur. Et encore ! Rien n’est moins sûr. L’humilité prévaut ici : on se revendique simples vignerons, tout en reconnaissant la grandeur des vins. Mais l’essentiel est ailleurs. Ce qui compte le plus, c'est de bichonner la vigne et de permettre aux raisins d'exprimer au mieux le terroir. Jean-François Coche, le patriarche, a commencé à travailler avec son père au début des années 1970. En 1975, il s’est marié avec Odile Dury, dont les terres sont venues compléter celles du domaine et qui y a apposé son patronyme. Leur fils Raphaël est en train de reprendre le domaine, aidé par sa jeune épouse, Charline. Leurs 9 hectares de vignes donnent naissances à des cuvées estampillées Bourgogne, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthélie, Volnay et leurs deux vedettes : Meursault et Corton-Charlemagne. Contrairement à d'autres producteurs de la région, ces propriétaires ont résisté à beaucoup de changements et élaborent leurs vins de la même façon que leurs aïeuls. Ici les vendanges débutent relativement tôt pour préserver l'acidité intrinsèque du raisin.