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Bonnes Mares 2016 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côte de Nuits | Borgogna | Francia
Esaurito
Punteggi dei critici
93 Robert Parker
The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, also 100% whole cluster fruit, had a very open-knit, expressive bouquet that maybe felt a little monotone when compared directly with the Charmes-Chambertin. The palate is medium-bodied with abundant red berry fruit, almost pastille-like in purity, quite sensual although just missing that knockout, killer blow on the linear finish. This Bonnes-Mares prefers to play it safe. I would like to see that killer instinct that elevated the 2015 to a higher level.<br/>The big news earlier this year was winemaker Pierre Vincent’s move from Domaine de la Vougeraie to Domaine Leflaive. When key personnel transfer to another company, then it is bound to cause concern about the continued success. Pierre had been instrumental in improving the wines at Vougeraie over his 11-year tenure. Previously, the wines had been rather overextracted and Pierre imbued them with more terroir expression, greater restraint and more class. It was no surprise that Leflaive snapped him up. Winemakers come and go, but the vines stay the same. When I asked about who was taking Pierre’s place, I was informed that rather than highlighting a single person, they would prefer to emphasize that there is a winemaking team, obligatory when you have such a diaspora of vineyards the length and breadth of the region. “We used more whole bunches to gain more complexity,” François, one of their winemaking team told me and, indeed, examining the list of wines I can see that several cuvées include 100% whole bunch, even the entry-level "Terres de Famille" red includes 30%. “We found this gave more balance in the reds. We had good results [using whole bunch] with the 2015 and so tried to do the same with 2016. The yields were low and the concentration of the grapes was good. We lost 55% of the production because of frost and lost our Beaune Grèves and Beaune Clos du Roi entirely, although Les Damodes, Le Petit Noizon and Les Clos Blanc did not suffer damage. We started the picking on 15 September with the whites with the Les Clos Blanc. We did a small pigéage. I did not want a brutal extraction, so I used lower fermentation temperatures. The wines are all matured using one-third new, one-third one-year and one-third two-year oak, racked from barrel by barrel, from new into used barrels. I found that the malolactic fermentation in 2016 was longer than in 2015. The wines were racked just before harvest, and I will bottle them a little later in April 2018 rather than end February.” With such a wide array of propitious parcels scattered all across the Côte d'Or there is always bound to be a clutch of great wines from Domaine de la Vougeraie. Add into the mix the frost and mildew and ineluctably you will get a lot of variation in quality, and that is the case here. There are crus that I felt were discombobulated by the growing season and only just managed to stumble across the finish line, others that are quite brilliant, both white and red. I will leave readers to peruse the reviews. Buy carefully, and you might have a great and, dare I say, well-priced wine on your hands.
Produttore
Domaine de la Vougeraie

In posizione idilliaca fuori Nuits-Saint-Georges a Prémeaux, Domaine de la Vougeraie fu chiamato così dopo le importanti acquisizioni nel paese di Vougeot. Creata nel 1999 da Jean-Claude Boisset del gruppo Boisset, questa bella tenuta di Borgogna è abbastanza nuova sulla scena del vino. Riunendo tutte le proprietà delle sue numerose società négociant, i vigneti frammentati si estendono su 44 ettari in 37 denominazioni diverse, di cui nove classificate Grand Cru. Oggi Pierre Vincent è il vinificatore responsabile e usa un approccio più delicato. Con oltre 30 vini da vigneti coltivati con metodo biodinamico, i vini di Domaine de la Vougeraie, come noi, hanno il loro carattere. Equilibrati dalla dicotomia tra semplicità e complessità, sono di gran lunga gli esempi più autentici della Borgogna.