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95 Robert Parker
Iris, peony, heliotrope, black tea, ginseng, red raspberry, pomegranate, chalk dust, and striking if illusive mineral savor suggestive of lobster shell reduction team up for a de Vogue 2008 Musigny Vieilles Vignes of dizzying aromatic complexity as well as formidable depth and intrigue. In winemaker Francois Millet’s terms, “we have here both the subjective (i.e. metaphorical) minerality, and the proper minerality, meaning the powdery trace of limestone.” Whether or not you accept the latter claim, it’s pretty hard to argue with the riveting, kaleidoscopic complexity of this finely-tannic, at once silken and refreshing, intensely-fruited, floral, and – yes – “mineral” Musigny. I would expect this to be worth following for 15 or more years. Incidentally, even at this top end of their line-up and with a wine of such strong personality, the team here employed only one-third new barrels, just as they did for their other 2008s. Francois Millet – always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage – characterizes that of 2008 as “syrup-like,” and of 2007 as “candied.” I am skeptical that these metaphors can be generalized, but under no circumstances should “syrup-like” be taken as an attempt to deny the brightness or transparency displayed by so many of the best 2008s, including these. “To have been picked late” – in this instance, starting September 27 – “to have been picked cold, and to have fermented very slowly to created the largest amount of glycerol to combine with the freshness of the vintage,” opines Millet, constitutes a significant part of the 2008s’ secret, seduction, even mystery. “Late malo” – here completed in August – he adds, “was also good, so that the vintage could have a true childhood, and slowly, surely build itself. If we had had a southern wind when the weather changed, maybe we would have lost that identity of 2008. But by there being a northern wind, the evolution was continued” i.e. in a constant, cool trajectory. Not to short-change it, the 2007 vintage collection here is one of those few capable of standing direct comparison to its immediate successor – or indeed to nearly any other vintage from this address.
Produttore
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüe
Il Domaine Comtes de Vogüé è uno dei più famosi produttori della Côte d'Or. Situato a Chambolle Musigny, risale al 1450, quando Jean Moisson costruì l’edificio originario. La domaine è rimasto della stessa famiglia sin dalle origini, perfino durante la Rivoluzione Francese, quando andarono in esilio in Inghilterra. Nel 1766, una discendente sposò Cerice-Melchior de Vogüé, assegnando così questo nome alla tenuta. La sua storia più moderna è iniziata nel 1925 quando il Conte Georges de Vogüé ne assunse la guida e disegnò l’etichetta. Oggi, la tenuta è di proprietà delle nipoti ed è gestita da tre persone: Eric Bourgogne, gestore del vigneto; François Millet, capo enologo e Jean-Luc Pépin, responsabile vendite e marketing. La tenuta possiede un’incredibile quantità di Musigny - 7,2 ha (oltre 6,55 ha di uva rossa e gli altri 0,65 ha di bianca) su una superficie totale di 10,85 ha, rendendo Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue di gran lunga il maggior domaine (il secondo maggior proprietario è JF Mugnier con 1,13 ha). Il suo Bonnes Mares è sicuramente uno dei vini più ambiti nella zona.