Champagne Brut Collection 1989 75cl

Shows a lovely interplay between the creamy bead and rich notes of almond financier, apricot preserves, treacle and cardamom, with finely cut, persistent acidity and flavors of pastis, raspberry puree, fennel seed and fleur de sel. Offers a refined, lasting finish, with a push of saline-tinged minerality. Drink now through 2029. –AN

Krug’s 1989 Brut Krug Collection represents their most recent in a long-running series of late-releases that feature a vintage they have decided is especially expressive after entering what they refer to as its “second life.” In theory, if you have ideal cellar conditions and bought Krug’s initial disgorgement of the 1989 vintage when it came on the market around a decade ago, then you have essentially the same wine today, though I have never been lucky enough to make the relevant direct comparison. Given the relative infrequency with which a vintage is “declared” by Krug, their “Collection” bottlings represent the remnants of an already elite band. But this 1989 represents the first re-release from the only series of three consecutive vintage bottlings – 1988-1990 – in Krug’s history. The mingling of saline, nutty, and caramelized notes in the nose – adumbrating this wine’s entire performance – is gorgeous. Butter-toasted hazelnuts, dried wild mushrooms, kelp, and cocoa mingle in a silken, mouthwateringly saline and savory matrix reminiscent of oyster liquor laced with fresh lemon juice (because, there is still a youthfully citric store of energy here). This finishes with correspondingly pronounced umami and with tangy vibrancy of citrus and salt. After a day open, the nutty elements become more piquant and walnut-like, but the smoky hints of oxidation remain balanced by citric and mineral elements and positively integrated into a mysteriously diverse show. The palate becomes plusher (perhaps in part due to diminishing mousse) and creamy in an almost whipped-cream fashion, yet the long finish continues to offer uncanny refreshment. Certainly this can be safely held for at least a few more years and perhaps in an ideal cellar will “plateau” (or continue to). Krug – part of the Louis-Vuitton-Moet-Hennessy luxury goods empire since 1999 – continues to release wines fully worthy of their house’s exalted reputation that reflect inter alia the effects of micro-vinification in barrel and an (in the best sense) laissez-faire and leisurely attitude toward elevage and bottle-aging. (Although – for what little this may be worth – count me among those who find the metalicized labels that now adorn their bottles glitzy, and as such slightly incongruous with their contents). Director Olivier Krug represents his family’s sixth generation, assisted by veteran cellarmaster Eric Lebel and oenologist Julie Cavil. Most Champagne lovers will realize that each bottle from Krug nowadays comes with an identification number enabling the consumer to research its approximate disgorgement date – and sometimes other details specific to the bottle in question – via the house’s web site; but in keeping with the convention established for my reports, I have only referenced this number for the purpose of disambiguating non-vintage cuvees.