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Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2009 75cl

Wiltingen | Mosel | Germany
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2009
Critics scores
98 Robert Parker
Esszencia-like in its alliance of near-gelatinous, creamy viscosity with near-weightlessness as well as its prominent themes of apricot and peach preserves, the Muller 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ( not slated for bottling before spring of 2011) is undeniably embryonic, but at the same time already stunningly and intriguingly complex. Suggestions of roasted black truffle and concentrated meat stock and crustacean shell; lily-like perfume that liquefies into a slick, mouth-quickening essence; and an entire cabinet of brown spices help generate a show of inexhaustibly savory potential, irresistible seduction, and inexplicable mystery, to say nothing of nearly indelible persistence and indefatigable potential over the next half century and beyond. While Egon Muller harvested into November, he noted that the best results were mostly achieved before that, with "the Spatlesen and Auslesen picked in the early passes, which captured what there was of botrytis" on his vineyards, and the collection he fielded from 2009 is not merely notable for the extraordinary quality of select cuvees, but also for its outstanding consistency. Muller draws parallels with 1971, 1990, and 1997, while noting that his 2009s are higher in acidity than the estate's sensational 1997s. A comparison with 2007 also strikes me as inevitable, and I personally take Muller's self-deprecating remark that "in 2009 we tried to rectify certain failures of 2007" with a large grain of tartrate salt. Asked to clarify, he referred to his having in that year been less perseverant or conscientious ("konsequent") in the search for berries of top Auslese or T.B.A.-grade. (To whatever extent that was true of 2007, Muller certainly fooled me!) This year's litany of individual Kabinett bottlings represents a volume approximately equal to that of the collective Spatlesen; and despite Muller's decision to bottle his entire 2009 collection later than usual, one of those Kabinetts – an A.P. #2, and his sole lot of this vintage that represents an amalgamation of two fuders – had already been shipped from the winery without remainder by the time I visited in September. (As ill luck would have it, I learned too late to remedy this deficiency by press time that precisely this wine – at a suggested retail price of $60 – was the Kabinett being sold by Muller's national U.S. agent.) This year's Auslesen, notes Muller, tend to each represent the picking of one particular day from across numerous parcels. (As always, Muller wines from his monopole Braune Kupp are bottled under the Le Gallais label, but in my reports and our database, we do not treat Le Gallais as an independent estate, since it and the Scharzhof have for more than half a century operated as one.)
Producer
Egon Müller Scharzhof
One of the greatest producers in Germany, Egon Müller IV is the current owner of the Scharzhof farm which was originally founded in 1797 by Frenchman, Jean-Jacques Koch. According to history, however, the land was probably used as far back as the Romans for grape growing. After the death of Jean-Jacques, the property was divided among his 7 children. His daughter Elisabeth married Felix Müller, a native of the Black Forest, and through inheritance and further purchases, the two were able to more or less double the size of the property by the 1850s. Elisabeth's second son, Egon Müller I was instrumental in creating the reputation that the Scharzhof estate enjoys to this day by promoting the estate through world exhibitions. The domaine was passed down through the Egon family, until it was passed onto Egon Müller IV who is at the helm. Egon favors a minimalist approach as did his father and believes that all the quality comes from the vineyard. It is his responsibility to pack the full potential into the bottle with little intervention. All of his wines come from the Scharzhof vineyard - including a QbA called Scharzhof Riesling, Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and occasionally Ice Wine. They are some of the purist expressions of Riesling produced today.