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Musigny 2008 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côte de Nuits | Burgundy | France
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Critics scores
95 Robert Parker
The Leroy 2008 Musigny is firm in texture and initially relatively reticent in aroma. Roasted red meat richness and decadently game-like elements put me a bit in mind of what I had expected from the corresponding Vougeot, but a blooming profusion of musky floral perfume bespeaks Musigny. There is a subtle oiliness of texture coating the tannins here and a tiny-berry concentration of diverse red fruits is shadowed by their ethereal distilled counterparts as well as by Chartreuse-like high-toned herbal evocations. This Musigny’s sheer sappy concentration, formidable structure, and carnal depth preclude its being charming or seductive in the unforgettable manner of its 2007 predecessor. But that doesn’t mean the finish here isn’t spellbinding or that the wine won’t bewitch you. Here, I suspect, is another candidate for a quarter-century’s enthralling evolution. <br/> <br/> Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.)<br/>
Producer
Domaine Leroy
As it became increasingly difficult to find wines that met the high standards of the Maison Leroy label, Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy decided to purchase her own vineyards. Piecing together several estates, she established Domaine Leroy in 1988. Today, the vineyards stretch over 21-hectares across mostly Grand Cru and Premier Cru classified zones. Following Lalou Bize-Leroy’s deep-rooted belief that everything is alive – from the soil to the grapes to humanity – she immediately introduced biodynamic farming out of respect for the terroir. This formerly controversial cultivation practice, is now a widely-known holistic approach that focuses on the interconnectedness of our environment – taking into account astrological and cosmic influences as well. Without the use of any chemical fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, or pesticides the vineyards are tended to year round – everything is hand done. The results of this quality-conscious producer are astounding. The wines are extremely concentrated yet refined, with a rare purity that stems from the property’s intuitive vineyards.