Clos des Lambrays 2008 75cl

Floral, smoke and spice aromas lead off, with fresh berry and mineral flavors adding depth and dimension. This is elegant, with class and breed, unfolding its layers right through the lengthy aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2028. 100 cases imported. –BS

The 2008 Clos des Lambrays smells of resin, incense, sassafras, and myriad fresh red berries; comes to the palate with terrific brightness, lift, pungency, and verve; and finishes with vibrant spiciness, exuberant sheer juiciness, and admirable clarity. With abundant but fine tannins, I suspect it will justify at least a decade’s attention, during which perhaps mineral and carnal complexities will emerge that are for now at most merely hinted-at.  Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.”