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Corton Charlemagne 2007 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côtes de Beaune | Burgundy | France
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Critics scores
94 Robert Parker
De la Moriniere is always at pains to caution that his white “shuts down” for several years soon after bottling, but in that case I must have tasted his 2007 Corton-Charlemagne before that happened. Cooling herbal, restrained floral and bitter-sweet hints of black currant and citrus rind on the nose lead to a luscious tide of ripe yellow plum, white peach, lime, and grapefruit tinged with chalk, salt, and iodine. A silken texture in no way diminishes the impression of clarity and refreshment. Faintly honeyed and nut oil notes add a sense of richness and depth in a finish of utmost purity of refreshing fruit; clarity to mineral nuances; and vibratory energy. When one compares the 2006 side-by-side today, the latter does indeed show a more overt stoniness and – for all of its textural richness and additional amplitude – suffers slightly in comparison with such fresh fruit vivacity as accrues to the 2007. But either of these contrasting reflections of a great site should be well worth following for more than a decade.
Producer
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Arguably the most celebrated producer of Corton-Charlemagne, it is the only estate in Burgundy to exclusively produce wine from Grand Cru vineyards. The extremely elegant yet personable Jean-Charles le Bault de la Mornière is currently at the helm of this formidable estate. He took over in 1994 when his uncle, Comte Jean le Bault retired, having run the estate from 1969 to 1993. The vineyards were originally purchased following the French Revolution, and they have remained in the family ever since. The original size covered 24 hectares, however it has been reduced over the years to its current size of 11 hectares, 9.5 being in Corton-Charlemagne, while the remaining lie in Corton and are consecrated to producing the domaine's red wine, though the white remains the star of the duo.