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90 Robert Parker
Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It has an agreeable, "classic" bouquet with tobacco-infused redcurrant and cranberry fruit that is well-defined and gains intensity in the glass, a distant autumnal woodland scent in the background developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, the finish moving towards secondary flavors with hints of brown sugar, tobacco and a hint of dried blood. This is a fine Margaux for the vintage and it should offer another decade of pleasure. Tasted April 2015.
Producer
Château Brane Cantenac
One of the most respected châteaux in the Margaux appellation, Château Brane Cantenac was established in the early 18th century and was bought by the Baron de Brane, a nobleman known as “Napoléon of the Vineyards” in 1833 following the sale of his other château, Mouton Rothschild. He renamed the château after himself (including Cantenac, a sub-section within the Margaux appellation), but it was eventually bought by other families throughout the years. In the 1920s, a branch of the Lurton family took it over with Château Margaux and while they do not retain Margaux, they still own and manage Brane Cantenac. It is planted to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and 0.5% Carménère, the latter only being introduced in the 2011 vintage as a way of balancing out higher alcohol due to climate change. Their Grand Vin is aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.