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94 Robert Parker
The 2008 Romanee St. Vivant is pure seduction. The aromatics alone are breathtaking, but the RSV is truly firing on all cylinders. Curiously, today the RSV is quite a bit rounder and suppler than the Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux. It shows remarkable silkiness, inner perfume and nobility. A seamless finish rounds things out in style. My instincts tell me this will firm up in bottle, but frankly I am a bit mystified that hasn’t happened yet. Today, this doesn’t look like a super long-term ager within the context of the domaine’s very finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. tasted the 2008s in bottle in late June 2011 after having gone through the 2010s from barrel. Aubert de Villaine describes 2008 as a difficult vintage with a lot of rain. Botrytis was an issue and the vineyards required constant attention. On September 14 the weather changed dramatically. A steady north wind dried out the grapes and concentrated sugars quickly, which also reduced the size of the berries. A further selection of fruit lowered yields to an even greater extent, resulting in overall production that is as much as 50% lower than normal for the Domaine. As for the wines, they are magnificent in my view, but will require considerable patience.
94 Robert Parker
The 2008 Romanee St. Vivant is pure seduction. The aromatics alone are breathtaking, but the RSV is truly firing on all cylinders. Curiously, today the RSV is quite a bit rounder and suppler than the Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux. It shows remarkable silkiness, inner perfume and nobility. A seamless finish rounds things out in style. My instincts tell me this will firm up in bottle, but frankly I am a bit mystified that hasn’t happened yet. Today, this doesn’t look like a super long-term ager within the context of the domaine’s very finest wines. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. tasted the 2008s in bottle in late June 2011 after having gone through the 2010s from barrel. Aubert de Villaine describes 2008 as a difficult vintage with a lot of rain. Botrytis was an issue and the vineyards required constant attention. On September 14 the weather changed dramatically. A steady north wind dried out the grapes and concentrated sugars quickly, which also reduced the size of the berries. A further selection of fruit lowered yields to an even greater extent, resulting in overall production that is as much as 50% lower than normal for the Domaine. As for the wines, they are magnificent in my view, but will require considerable patience.
Hersteller
Domaine de la Romanée Conti
Dies ist nicht nur die ikonischste Domaine in Burgund, sondern womöglich in ganz Frankreich und auf der ganzen Welt. Mit einem Monopol der beiden größten Weinberge Romanée-Conti und La Tâche, und einer guten Handvoll weiterer in Vosne-Romanée und darüber hinaus, konnte sie sich, bei aller Diskretion und Bescheidenheit, ihren ruhmreichen Status sichern. Sie befindet sich in Gemeinschaftseigentum der beiden Familien Villaine und Leroy-Roch, mit Aubert de Villaine als Geschätsführer seit 1974. Ihre Wurzeln reichen jedoch bis ins 13. Jahrhundert, als die Mönche von Saint-Vivant die ersten Reben setzten. Seit den 1980er-Jahren erfolgt die Bewirtschaftung ökologisch, und seit den 1990ern biodynamisch. Dies ist zweifellos auch die berühmteste Domaine der Region, die die ganzen Trauben fermentiert (und dies schon immer getan hat), ein etabliertes Verfahren, das Henri Jayer vermied, in den letzten Jahren aber viele andere Erzeuger inspiriert hat. Allen Meadows, der vielleicht versierteste Burgunder-Experte und -Kritiker auf der Welt, hat nur einem einzigen Wein jemals die perfekte Bewertung zugestanden – dem 1945er Romanée-Conti.