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Testamatta 2018 75cl

IGT | Toscane | Italie
CHF 81.10
Évaluations et Scores
97 James Suckling
Very subtle aromas of cherries, bark, black truffles and flowers. Hints of crushed stones. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight and solid with a very tight, minerally structure. Very long and intense. Racy and bright at the end. Powerful, orange-peel and citrus-fruit undertones. Salty and minerally. This needs time to develop in the bottle. Extremely structured. A wine not to touch until after 2023.
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
94 Robert Parker
The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet color. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. "The older they are, the better," Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.<br/><br/>
Producteur
Bibi Graetz
D'abord artiste, diplômé de l'Academia dell'Arte de Florence, Bibi Graetz a commencé à faire du vin à la fin des années 1990 pour devenir ensuite l'un des vignerons les plus inspirés de la Toscane. Graetz est né et a grandi en Italie mais n’a suivi aucune formation officielle avant de se lancer dans la production de vin dans sa maison familiale de Fiesole, le château Castello di Vincigliata. Très tôt, il a décidé de privilégier les cépages typiques de la Toscane, notamment le sangiovese, mais aussi le colorino et le canaiolo, ainsi que quelques petites parcelles de malvasia nera et de moscato nero. Les raisins proviennent de vieilles vignes (de 30 à 60 ans) cultivées dans la région du Chianti Classico, englobant la Maremme, l'île de Giglio et Montalcino. La vinification s'effectue dans des cuves ouvertes, produisant des vins à la robe rouge-encre noir sidérante d'intensité. La cuvée phare, la Testamatta, qui se traduit grosso modo par « Tête Brûlée », est un 100% sangiovese issu de vieilles vignes qui offre une puissance rehaussée de notes de cerise et de tabac. Autre particularité du domaine : toutes ses étiquettes sont dessinées par Graetz lui-même, puisant son inspiration dans le soleil toscan. Artiste reconverti en vigneron culte, Graetz frise l’excellence à chaque millésime et ses vins sont particulièrement recherchés par les amateurs de la Toscane.