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Yquem 2019 600cl

1er Cru Supérieur Classé | Sauternes | Bordeaux | France
CHF 2’810.60
Critics scores
98 Vinous
Owners LVMH took the decision to delay the release of the 2019 Yquem until spring 2022. It was tasted with winemaker Sandrine Garbay in London. After the summer drought when Sauternes received just 2.5mm of rain until 26 July, that day saw a 112mm deluge that replenished underground reserves and gave ripening the push it needed. Dry and warm conditions prevailed throughout September when there was no sign of botrytis infection. That was finally provoked by 38mm of rain between 21 and 25 of September, followed by warm clement weather. After minor picking of Sauvignon Blanc on 7 of October, the main harvest began in earnest on 10 October. Pickers worked over the following five days, including Sunday. Time was of the essence because, as forecasts predicted, the weather suddenly changed on 14 of October with 40mm or rain. After that, the picking teams skirted between showers between 17 and 22 of October, though by now the fruit had begun to deteriorate. Therefore, the key aspect of this Yquem is the extremely tight picking window. The final blend contains 138g/L residual sugar, which is slightly less than the previous vintage, with 5.5g/L total acidity and 14.4% alcohol. Tasting the 2019, I noticed that it has a slightly paler hue compared to recent vintages (though I never read too much into the colour of young Sauternes.) For certain, it has a highly-aromatic bouquet that is beguiling in purity, enticing aromas of honeysuckle and saffron, soon joined by camomile, white flowers and orange blossom. It has wonderful delineation and gains intensity with aeration. The palate is supremely well-balanced with fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious and armed with just the right amount of viscosity, this Yquem is surprisingly understated at first but gains presence, offering irresistible flavours of layers of honey, lemongrass, lemon thyme and orange pith. Yquem is so tempting in its youth, but I feel that this vintage will repay those with the nous to cellar for at least a decade.
Producer
Château d'Yquem
Located 55 kilometers south of the town of Bordeaux, the charming 400-year-old Château d'Yquem has a breathtaking view of the Sauternes valley. This notorious estate is recognized around the world as one of the greatest sweet wine producers in France. After over two centuries of ownership, the Lur Saluces family sold the property to LVMH in 1999. The sunbathed vineyards, covering over 100-hectares enjoy refreshing morning mists, and are precisely harvested berry by berry. Bottled without filtration, the wines spend over three years in new-oak barrels. Vintner Pierre Lurton, the former director of Château Cheval Blanc has looked over the house vinification since 2004. Unrivaled for its combination of lace, power and feminine prowess, d’Yquem wines easily defend their Premier Cru Supérieur status. With an impressive production, the wines remain at the top, their supreme quality is culminated by the Grand Vin, Yquem.