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Gevrey Chambertin 2015 75cl

AOC Village | Côte de Nuits | Burgund | Frankreich
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90 Robert Parker
The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin Villages is Benjamin's main village cuvée that constitutes over 9,000 bottles, mostly sourced from Les Sevrées and La Justice (two-thirds and one-third respectively). It has a crisp, blackberry and redcurrant-scented bouquet with a touch of black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin, fine acidity and poise with good depth on the fleshy finish. This is a commendable village cru, the kind you would instantly whip off a restaurant list.<br/>A self-inflicted screw-up in my hectic itinerary coupled with a glitch in my mobile phone combined to almost screw up my visit to Benjamine Leroux completely. A quick race back to the hotel to sort out where I should be (obviously not Domaine Dublere given Blair Pethel’s perplexed expression as he pulled into his driveway) and I managed to lose just 45 minutes of my allotted time with Benjamin, who himself could not hang around since he was due a well-earned, post-harvest holiday with his young family. Still, we found time to taste through his entire portfolio of reds that runs to some 30+ labels, as well as discussing various topics surrounding Burgundy in his usual candid fashion. He told me that he started picking on 4 September and completed the entire picking within 3 days in order to capture the acidity. “The 2015 is much better than 2005,” he commented, not mincing his words. “They don’t jump in your face. There is less alcohol and more elegance.” There is a sense of fluidity in Benjamin’s range of wines, exacerbated by the shortages in recent years. Out goes the Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, though he was not too disgruntled since he managed to find some Malconsorts and much prefers the quality. He also managed to source not one but two parcels of fruit from Pommard, which he frankly never expected. I will leave the tasting notes to do the talking. There are some exceptional wines here that rank alongside the illustrious names of Burgundy. He certainly has the gift of touch that seems to elevate everything from village crus to grand crus. I did ask about Nicolas Rossignol since he had been renting space from Benjamin in recent years. Nicolas now has his own facility and though he will miss his friend, he told me that the additional space will allow him to work more precisely in the future. So things could get even better. Alas, I couldn't find a window to taste Benjamin's white 2015s, although I will try to do so in early 2017.
Hersteller
Maison Benjamin Leroux
Als es zusehends schwieriger wurde, Weine zu finden, die den hohen Standards der Marke Maison Leroy gerecht wurden, beschloss Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy kurzerhand, sich ihre eigenen Weinberge zuzulegen. So kaufte sie mehrere Grundstücke zusammen und gründete 1988 die Domaine Leroy. Heute erstrecken sich die insgesamt 21 Hektar vorwiegend über als Grand Cru und Premier Cru eingestuften Zonen. Gemäß der festen Überzeugung von Madame Bize-Leroy, dass alles lebt – vom Boden über die Trauben bis hin zum Menschen – führte sie umgehend aus Achtung vor dem Terroir biodynamische Anbaumethoden ein. Diese einst umstrittene Art der Bewirtschaftung ist heute ein weithin bekannter holistischer Ansatz, der auf der Überzeugung beruht, dass alles mit allem zusammenhängt, unter Einbeziehung auch astrologischer und kosmischer Einflüsse. Ohne den Einsatz jeglicher synthetischer Dünger, Herbizide, Insektizide oder Pestizide werden die Weinberge das ganze Jahr hindurch in Handarbeit gepflegt. Die Ergebnisse dieses qualitätsbewussten Hauses sind frappierend: die Weine sind extrem konzentriert und doch raffiniert und von einer ungewöhnlichen Reinheit, die vom intuitiven Charakter ihrer Weinberge stammt.