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Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2009 75cl

Wiltingen | Mosel | Deutschland
Ausverkauft

Alle Jahrgänge

2009
Rezensionen & Bewertungen
98 Robert Parker
Esszencia-like in its alliance of near-gelatinous, creamy viscosity with near-weightlessness as well as its prominent themes of apricot and peach preserves, the Muller 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ( not slated for bottling before spring of 2011) is undeniably embryonic, but at the same time already stunningly and intriguingly complex. Suggestions of roasted black truffle and concentrated meat stock and crustacean shell; lily-like perfume that liquefies into a slick, mouth-quickening essence; and an entire cabinet of brown spices help generate a show of inexhaustibly savory potential, irresistible seduction, and inexplicable mystery, to say nothing of nearly indelible persistence and indefatigable potential over the next half century and beyond. While Egon Muller harvested into November, he noted that the best results were mostly achieved before that, with "the Spatlesen and Auslesen picked in the early passes, which captured what there was of botrytis" on his vineyards, and the collection he fielded from 2009 is not merely notable for the extraordinary quality of select cuvees, but also for its outstanding consistency. Muller draws parallels with 1971, 1990, and 1997, while noting that his 2009s are higher in acidity than the estate's sensational 1997s. A comparison with 2007 also strikes me as inevitable, and I personally take Muller's self-deprecating remark that "in 2009 we tried to rectify certain failures of 2007" with a large grain of tartrate salt. Asked to clarify, he referred to his having in that year been less perseverant or conscientious ("konsequent") in the search for berries of top Auslese or T.B.A.-grade. (To whatever extent that was true of 2007, Muller certainly fooled me!) This year's litany of individual Kabinett bottlings represents a volume approximately equal to that of the collective Spatlesen; and despite Muller's decision to bottle his entire 2009 collection later than usual, one of those Kabinetts – an A.P. #2, and his sole lot of this vintage that represents an amalgamation of two fuders – had already been shipped from the winery without remainder by the time I visited in September. (As ill luck would have it, I learned too late to remedy this deficiency by press time that precisely this wine – at a suggested retail price of $60 – was the Kabinett being sold by Muller's national U.S. agent.) This year's Auslesen, notes Muller, tend to each represent the picking of one particular day from across numerous parcels. (As always, Muller wines from his monopole Braune Kupp are bottled under the Le Gallais label, but in my reports and our database, we do not treat Le Gallais as an independent estate, since it and the Scharzhof have for more than half a century operated as one.)
Hersteller
Egon Müller Scharzhof
Als einer der bedeutendsten Produzenten in Deutschland ist Egon Müller IV der derzeitige Inhaber des Scharzhof-Gutes, das ursprünglich 1797 von dem Franzosen Jean-Jacques Koch gegründet wurde. Nach den historischen Quellen wurde dieser Flecken Land wahrscheinlich aber schon zu Zeiten der Römer für den Weinanbau genutzt. Nach dem Tod von Jean-Jacques wurde der Besitz unter seinen sieben Kindern aufgeteilt. Seine Tochter Elisabeth heiratete Felix Müller, einen Schwarzwälder, und durch Erbschaft und weitere Landkäufe konnten die beiden die Größe des Anwesens bis zu den 1850ern mehr oder weniger verdoppeln. Elisabeths zweiter Sohn, Egon Müller I, hat entscheidend zum heutigen Ruf des Scharzhofs beigetragen, indem er auf Weltausstellungen Werbung betrieb. Das Anwesen wurde von Egon zu Egon der Familie weitergereicht, bis zum heutigen Egon Müller IV. Er bevorzugt, wie schon sein Vater, einen minimalistischen Ansatz und ist der Überzeugung, dass alle Qualität vom Weinberg kommen muss. Seine Aufgabe besteht darin, dass das volle Potential ohne allzuviel Intervention in die Flasche gelangt. Alle seine Weine stammen vom Scharzhof-Weinberg, darunter eine QbA namens Scharzhof Riesling, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese und gelegentlich ein Eiswein. Sie zählen zu den reinsten Manifestationen der Riesling-Traube, die heutzutage produziert werden.