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Clos Vougeot 2008 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côte de Nuits | Burgund | Frankreich
CHF 421.60
Rezensionen & Bewertungen
92 Robert Parker
Meo’s 2008 Clos Vougeot smells of charred, roasted red meats; smoky-sweet machine oil; metal shavings; and blackberry preserves. A correspondingly dark; sweet; smoky; subtly caramelized and bitter palate impression takes on aspects of medicinal herbal concentrate and saline, savory soy as you aerate the wine in your mouth. This is plush to an extent that covers over its tannins until they emerge grippingly in a finish whose sappy, subtly oily, sweet intensity no one is likely to deem “elegant,” but which is certainly impressive in its powerful way. Look for 12-15 years of high performance from bottles of this. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”)
92 Robert Parker
Meo’s 2008 Clos Vougeot smells of charred, roasted red meats; smoky-sweet machine oil; metal shavings; and blackberry preserves. A correspondingly dark; sweet; smoky; subtly caramelized and bitter palate impression takes on aspects of medicinal herbal concentrate and saline, savory soy as you aerate the wine in your mouth. This is plush to an extent that covers over its tannins until they emerge grippingly in a finish whose sappy, subtly oily, sweet intensity no one is likely to deem “elegant,” but which is certainly impressive in its powerful way. Look for 12-15 years of high performance from bottles of this. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”)
Hersteller
Domaine Méo-Camuzet
Die Domaine Méo-Camuzet, eins der herausragenden Anwesen von Vosne-Romanée, wurde zu Beginn des 20. Jahrhunderts von Étienne Camuzet gegründet, Mitglied des französischen Parlaments für die Côte d’Or von 1902 bis 1932. Er wählte und kaufte Weinberge, an denen er ein besonderes Interesse hatte, wie auch das überragende Château de Clos de Vougeot (er war sein letzter Einzelbesitzer, eher er es der Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin stiftete). Sein Besitz ging auf seine Tochter Maria Noirot über, und schließlich 1959 auf Jean Méo, einen entfernteren Verwandten. Wie viele Domaines zu jener Zeit wurden die Weinberge von Pächtern (métayeurs) bestellt und der Wein als Massenware an Négociants verkauft. Die Domaine füllte erst 1985 ihren eigenen Wein ab, und als 1989 Jeans Sohn, Jean-Nicolas, die Leitung übernahm, hatte sie sich vollständig gewandelt. Der Name Henri Jayer, eine der großen Persönlichkeiten Burgunds, wird auf ewig mit Méo-Camuzet verbunden sein. Er war Langzeitpächter des Anwesens, bis er sich 1988 erstmals zur Ruhe setzte. Danach war er noch viele Jahre lang als Berater für die Domaine tätig. Diese hat ein beachtliches Sortiment an Weinen aus 25 verschiedenen Appellationen vorzuweisen, darunter sowohl die eigenen Domaine-Weine als auch eine Négociant-Marke namens Méo-Camuzet Frères & Soeurs.