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Latricières Chambertin 2007 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côte de Nuits | Burgund | Frankreich
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94 Robert Parker
The Leroy 2006 Latricieres Chambertin smells of peat, soy, game, and bloody meat juices, which figure on a palate of compressed intensity. Talk about “blood of the stones” – this seems to epitomize that phrase, although some of the iron-rich, corpuscular, animal variety is flowing through its veins as well. The presence of tart red berry concentrate seems almost incidental in the present context. A sort of sepulchral depth and stony fundament lend this severely palate-staining Pinot an aura of mystery. But it isn’t a charmer, and in its present state one imagines a vampire would find it more enticing than would a normal pinotphile. The sense of awed anticipation – of what this might become in 10-20 years – is its greatest attraction, in which respect, too, it is singular among 2007s. The results Lalou Bize-Leroy achieved in 2006 – as I wrote in my previous red Burgundy report – were especially notable considering the misgivings she expressed early on about that vintage. She appeared more enthusiastic early on about 2007, but in this instance it’s far from merely notable – frankly, it’s utterly improbable – the richness and complexity that the Leroy team has achieved, especially considering that harvesting began here already on August 27! This collection is quite distinctive even from the very few others of its vintage that come even remotely close in quality. These 2007s display a sense of effortless effusiveness, primary juiciness, and – I don’t know how to put this less nebulously – elegance and in the best instances transparency, contrasting with the impressions of tumescent ripeness, coagulation, and new wood veneer that in some vintages accompany the profound richness of Leroy reds. As usual, the wines were all bottled in December, which at least in this vintage seems less difficult to reconcile with their exceptional quality than it does in vintages like 2005 or 2008, when so many of the other top practitioners of red Burgundy emphasize the need for longer elevage. Extremely low yields are of course also a common denominator among Bize-Leroy’s collections, although in the challenging 2007 vintage, she had somewhat more company than usual among fellow-vignerons in the roughly 20 hectoliter-per-hectare range. (And that was bounteous compared with the 13 hectoliters per hectare Bize-Leroy reports having managed in 2008, a vintage from which she did not want to show her bottled wines until June of this year, so that I shall publish notes on them in my follow-up to the present report.)
Hersteller
Domaine Leroy
Als es zusehends schwieriger wurde, Weine zu finden, die den hohen Standards der Marke Maison Leroy gerecht wurden, beschloss Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy kurzerhand, sich ihre eigenen Weinberge zuzulegen. So kaufte sie mehrere Grundstücke zusammen und gründete 1988 die Domaine Leroy. Heute erstrecken sich die insgesamt 21 Hektar vorwiegend über als Grand Cru und Premier Cru eingestuften Zonen. Gemäß der festen Überzeugung von Madame Bize-Leroy, dass alles lebt – vom Boden über die Trauben bis hin zum Menschen – führte sie umgehend aus Achtung vor dem Terroir biodynamische Anbaumethoden ein. Diese einst umstrittene Art der Bewirtschaftung ist heute ein weithin bekannter holistischer Ansatz, der auf der Überzeugung beruht, dass alles mit allem zusammenhängt, unter Einbeziehung auch astrologischer und kosmischer Einflüsse. Ohne den Einsatz jeglicher synthetischer Dünger, Herbizide, Insektizide oder Pestizide werden die Weinberge das ganze Jahr hindurch in Handarbeit gepflegt. Die Ergebnisse dieses qualitätsbewussten Hauses sind frappierend: die Weine sind extrem konzentriert und doch raffiniert und von einer ungewöhnlichen Reinheit, die vom intuitiven Charakter ihrer Weinberge stammt.