Close
Suchen
Filters

Chambolle Musigny Les Gruenchers V.V. 2012 300cl

AOC Premier Cru | Côte de Nuits | Burgund | Frankreich
CHF 2’107.95

Alle Jahrgänge

2012
Rezensionen & Bewertungen
93 Robert Parker
The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers comes from vines planted back in 1928. It has a pointed raspberry and wild strawberry nose with delicate forest floor scents. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins. Good body here, real substance with plenty of raspberry and cranberry notes filled with mineral on the finish. Stylistically similar to Ghislaine Barthod, this is a very fine Chambolle premier cru. Since yours truly screwed up his timetable and arrived promptly on the right time, the right day but the wrong week at Domaine Fourrier, it was the delightful Vicky Fourrier, Jean-Marie’s so-called “better half”, who escorted me around the 2012s. As I have written before, this address has a strong following in the UK and Europe, now also in the United States, although the exports consume such a percentage of production than Fourrier is perversely unknown in his home country. Jean-Marie’s wines have a loyal following for a reason: the quality of the wines. That comes from their treasure trove of old vine material, which is replaced through massal selection rather than clones, and Jean-Marie’s meticulous craftsmanship. “It was very warm in March, which got everything going quickly,” Vicky told me as we began tasting the 2012s directly from stainless steel vats. “Spring was cold which gave us coulure and so we already had some vines with no grapes. May was almost like summer, and then at flowering it was cold and wet, which caused millerandage that affected the old vines. But from then on, there was a high pressure of mildew and oidium, so you had to be spot on in the vineyard. But from end August it was sunny and the berries were far apart so there was no rot. There was nothing to do on the sorting table. But there were just tiny quantities, so much so that Jean-Claude, Jean-Marie’s father, was in tears as the crop came in from 21 September. We completed the harvest in 4½ days instead of seven and so we are about 50-60% down in production. For us, the malo-lactic fermentations were quite short this year and they were all finished by the end of June. The wines will be bottled mid-December.” This year, all cuvees have been raised in 20% new oak. As usual and as I expected, this was an impressive set of 2012s that followed the leitmotifs of the vintage, honing in on finesse rather than power. These were pure, feminine and dare I say, damn drinkable wines, many of which I could have eloped with there and then. These will be drinking earlier than say the 2010s from Jean-Marie Fourrier, but I suspect that they are deceptively long lived.
Hersteller
Domaine Fourrier
Jean-Marie Fourrier ist der leitende Winzer dieser Domaine. Er übernahm sie 1994 von seinem Vater Jean-Claude, nachdem er einige Zeit in Oregon für die Domaine Drouhin und für Herni Jayer gearbeitet hatte. Während die Weine der Domaine Fourrier schon lange einen guten Ruf genießen, hat Jean-Marie mit seinem Sinn für Perfektion seine Zeit genutzt, um die Produktion noch besser zu machen. Heute ist seine Zuordnungsliste schon lange voll. Die Domaine verfügt über 8,5 Hektar, die sich mehrheitlich auf Gevrey-Chambertin und in kleinerem Umfang auf ausgelagerte Parzellen in Chambolle, Morey und Vougeot verteilen. Zwar ist Jean-Marie kein Anhänger der Biodyamik (da sie ihm zu extrem scheint), doch er praktiziert natürliche Anbaumethoden mit großem Respekt vor dem Boden. Diese Philosophie setzt sich in der Weinbereitung fort, mit dem Ergebnis, dass seine Weine zu den am feinsten abgestimmten, ausgewogensten und elegantesten Exemplaren eines Pinot Noir in ganz Burgund gehören.