Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes "Hommage à Jean Morin" 2013 75cl

Rich and concentrated, with a dense layer of tannins supporting black cherry, plum, black pepper, earth and mineral flavors. Shows depth and energy, fading with harmony and grace on the long finish of iron, fruit and spice. Best from 2020 through 2036. From France.—B.S

The 2013 Clos Vougeot “Hommage à Jean Morin” is a cuvee that he introduced in 2010 honoring François’s grandfather. There was no follow-up in 2011, but it has been made in 2012 and 2013. It is made from old vines, specifically from only the first bunches after the graft that receives the first sap. There are just two barrels in this vintage. It is very different on the nose compared to the Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes. First, there is more red fruit coming through: red cherries, quince and blueberry. It is difficult to believe that this comes from the same vines! This is so much more expressive at the moment, more articulate perhaps. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. This is quite powerful with touches of dark chocolate and coca infusing the fruit that here becomes blacker, especially on the finish. Fascinating–but it will need several years in bottle. <br/><br/>Following my brief tête-à-tête with François Labet at the Grands Jours de Bourgogne tastings last year, I fulfilled my promise to visit him at Château de la Tour in Clos Vougeot, where I tasted both wines from within the ancient walls of the famous clos, and recent releases under his own label. Pierre is an amiable fellow, candid and generous with his opinions, a self-confidence in his way of doing things. He told me that he is bottling later and later due to the richness of the wines. I tasted three wines from Château de la Tour. What was most remarkable was the “Hommage à Jean Morin” that was cut from a totally different cloth from the “Vieilles Vignes." The only difference is that it is cut from specific bunches on the vine (see tasting note). See also entry under “Pierre Labet."